Ranch Remodels.com

Popcorn, a coating sprayed onto the ceilings of homes built between 1935 and 1979, is often one of the first items a new homeowner wants to change. They often feel these types of ceilings are dated or have heard about hazards associated with them. Learning what to do with popcorn ceilings is one way to save a good amount of money when remodeling.

photo credit: BarelyFitz

If you’re thinking of removing the popcorn ceiling from your home, here are some things to consider before starting the project and some items you’ll need if you choose to tackle the project on your own.

Before removing an entire room’s worth of ceiling texture, it would be best to carefully remove a small portion of the texture to have it tested for asbestos. Check with your local Health Department to find a testing facility or for suggestions about where to purchase an at-home asbestos test.

Asbestos isn’t hazardous unless it is disturbed, so if you find it in your home, it’s best to leave it alone. However, if the asbestos has been damaged and could be getting into the air, your options are to remove it or to contain it in some manner. Don’t attempt to remove the asbestos on your own without knowing having the proper respiratory protection. You may choose to have a professional remove the popcorn ceiling in order to protect your family.

If asbestos isn’t a problem you’ll need the following materials to remove the popcorn ceiling from your rooms.

• Respirator masks

• Safety goggles

• Joint compound
• Putty knife
• Pole sander and sanding screen
• Wall scraper or trowel
• Pump sprayer
• Ladder

Empty the room out that you’re working in and then cover the floor with a drop cloth. Everyone working on the ceiling should wear goggles and respiratory masks. Spray a small portion of the ceiling with warm soapy water, starting in one corner, and then scrape the popcorn covering from the ceiling. Work toward the center of the room and then remove the garbage.

Let the ceiling dry completely before trying to patch any nail holes, replacing any seams, or starting to paint. Prime the ceiling and then use flat paint to give your room a completely updated look.

If you’re unhappy with the ceilings in your home and you’ve wondered what to do with popcorn ceilings, you can replace them. Be sure to test the ceiling texture for asbestos, and if all is well, take on the project by yourself or hire a contractor to do the job for you.

Hi there, I have a question about painting or white washing real wood paneling.

We have a VINTAGE 1975 house that we have recently purchased. I love the BONES of the house, but it is in need of some serious updating.

The den has real wood knotty pine paneling in a walnut type color finish. It is BEAUTIFUL but way to dark.

How can I update it a bit and lighten it up too. Without completely stripping it and refinishing it….NOT AN OPTION!

Thanks, Heather Milan

Heather,

Most paneling has a glossy surface (varnish?) and before you can paint or whitewash to lighten it you’ll have to “de-gloss” it.

Years ago I painted some ugly paneling and skipped this step. Huge mistake! The paint peeled away in huge strips. Not good.

I have since learned that all I needed to do was give it a light scuff-sanding (steel wool works) or there are de-glossing chemicals available at professional paint stores that you can use as well.

Once “de-glossed’ you’ll need to apply a good primer/sealer if you are going to paint. Behr has a good one at Home Depot, but Kilz is another good one (a little pricey though) and can be found most anywhere (even Wal-Mart). After you’ve primed it you are ready to paint it your favorite color.

White Wash Over Paneling

If you’d rather just “whitewash” the paneling you can skip the “primer” part and simply take a thinned down coat of white/off white paint (or a color can be used, too) and using a sponge (a regular sponge will work but one that fits in your hand nicely/comfortably) “wash” the walls.

To avoid “streaks” you will need to either wash in one direction (down the wall with the grain of the wood paneling) or you’ll need to soften your wash streaks with a woolie as you go and before your “wash” dries.

Too, if your wood is “raw” it will absorb the paint unevenly like rubbing chalk with water.

You may want to put a sealant on it like MinWax Ploycrylic first, then “ruff it up” before whitewashing over real wood paneling. Work in small sections of the panel and in a continuous flow (one long wipe down the wall rather than across two or three sections).

When you are finished seal your work with MinWax Polycrylic in and finish you like (Matte, Semi-Gloss, etc). This will protect your pretty new walls and allows you to wipe them clean with a damp cloth if necessary.

That Painter Lady - TAWN

Spectacular Walls!

If you live in a 1950’s or even a 1970’s ranch style home… you probably have some wood paneling. It might be just the look you want… but most of us want it to just go away.

If removing wood paneling is not an option… what are we to do?

photo credit: trekkyandyI

I had Tawn Gale… one of THAT Painter Lady Experts answer this question:

Hi there, I have a question about painting or white washing real wood paneling.
We have a VINTAGE 1975 house that we have recently purchased. I love the BONES of the house, but it is in need of some serious updating.
The den has real wood knotty pine paneling in a walnut type color finish. It is BEAUTIFUL but way to dark.
How can I update it a bit and lighten it up too. Without completly stripping it and refinishing it….NOT AN OPTION!
Thanks

Most paneling has a glossy surface (varnish?) and before you can paint or whitewash to lighten it you’ll have to “de-gloss” it.

Years ago I painted some ugly paneling and skipped this step. Huge mistake! The paint peeled away in huge strips. Not good.

I have since learned that all I needed to do was give it a light scuff-sanding (steel wool works) or there are de-glossing chemicals available at professional paint stores that you can use as well.

Once “de-glossed’ you’ll need to apply a good primer/sealer if you are going to paint. Behr has a good one at Home Depot, but Kilz is another good one (a little pricey though) and can be found most anywhere (even Wal-Mart). After you’ve primed it you are ready to paint it your favorite color.

If you’d rather just “whitewash” the paneling you can skip the “primer” part and simply take a thinned down coat of white/off white paint (or a color can be used, too) and using a sponge (a regular sponge will work but one that fits in your hand nicely/comfortably) “wash” the walls.

To avoid “streaks” you will need to either wash in one direction (down the wall with the grain of the wood paneling) or you’ll need to soften your wash streaks with a woolie as you go and before your “wash” dries.

Too, if your wood is “raw” it will absorb the paint unevely like rubbing chalk with water.

You may want to put a sealant on it like MinWax Ploycrylic first, then “ruff it up” before whitewashing.

Work in small sections of the panel and in a continuous flow (one long wipe down the wall rather than across two or three sections).

When you are finished seal your work with MinWax Polycrylic in and finish you like (Matte, Semi-Gloss, etc).

This will protect your pretty new walls and allows you to wipe them clean with a damp cloth if necessary.

I hope this was helpful in learning how to paint paneling… If you need more help, don’t hesitate to ask.

THAT Painter Lady - Tawn

http://www.thatpainterlady.com